Kepler Track

 

The day of the famous Kepler Track has come. We had high expectations to experience the best of Fjordland that was multiplied by our fulltime study of various books and listening to numerous odes of various hikers (excuse me, New Zealanders, we meant trampers).

Because the weather forecast is getting better towards the weekend we decide to start on Thursday afternoon and save the best part – the mountain ridge (let us note that this part is what makes Kepler so famous) – for the sunny Saturday. Google the following – I am sure you will get wonderful views: we planned to start at the entry gates, through the Rainbow Bay and sleep at Shallow Bay the first night. Second day towards Iris Burn camp for an easy day. Third day was supposed to be long with climb up to Mt. Luxmore, over Luxmore Hut and big descent to Broad Bay camp. Sunday then just recovery to Te Anau and relax day.

According to the DOC staff member even the first part – the walk along the lake Te Anau – is well worth it. We should have been cautious when their eyes got that glazed look and their cheeks got pinkish colour (state of orgasm). The ridge – we were told – is dangerrrrroussss. Brrrrr. (here imagine the music from Jaws).

And so we parked our big red car and full of optimism headed towards our first day on Kepler Track. After about an hour we started wondering whether we are on the right track as nothing SO exciting came up so far and we were getting little restless no matter our backs carried at least 15 kilos each (here we should make and intermezzo with few comments on the local style of hiking: on our first hike in Arthurs Pass we were equipped as real Spartans, dry noodles, bread and cheese, few nuts and end of story. Later in the evening while sitting in the hut we were salivating because we had to witness how people pulled out fresh vegetable, meat and even a bottle of wine. Imagine smelling the delicious dinners when you sit and force yourself to you extra light to carry dried noodles.)

The brochures, maps and DOC staff said approx 4 – 5 hours. It took us about 3 hours and we were bored. However the hut was simply wonderful. Cosy, on the lake and romantic. Old style hut with only six bunks, proper worn timber floor, open fireplace and BIG mosquitoes. Kate took a swim. Henner didn’t take a swim (kvok kvok).

The next day still full of optimism we head for approx. 5-6 hours walk towards Iris Burn camp site. Slowly we came to realisation why Kepler is called a ‘walk’. You could pretty much push a wheelchair here. We – together with about half a billion of sand flies – take a loooong lunch break. Reading, sunbathing (what?! Sun in Fjordland? Where?!) and getting burnt. After only about four hours we reach Iron Bay camp site which is really nice, except for four more people empty. We go to sleep listening to hopeless attempts of sandflies to get to our tent. It sounds like rain and the walls are black with them.

Saturday morning and we open our eyes full of really real optimism and hope to see a sun. Surprise! The sound of sandflies was replaced by the sound of raindrops. But WHY?!!!!!!!!!! Weather in Fjordland is NOT predictable no matter how good you are reading satellite maps. And as a cherry on the cake there is a thick cover of white clouds. The ranger tries to force a hopeful smile but we see through. And so we climb over a thousand meters to almost the summit of Mt. Luxmnore, admire the white clouds around us,





we descent over a thousand meters to Broad Bay and because we ran out of gas we decide to extend the day, skip Broad Bay and head directly to Te Anau. Later in the evening this had to be followed by a visit of a supermarket with the purpose of buying a muscle anti-inflammatory gel.

This is Fjordland and this was Kepler. However, still full of optimism we believe that Kepler must be beautiful.

PS: Do you feel lonely? Go to New Zealand! Billions of sandflies will keep you a company 24/7. They seem to be so cute and LITTLE. But behind these nice faces, big eyes and shiny blue wings they hide big teeth and appetite to suck your blood. Ready anytime. These little creatures are everywhere and always. Do you want to have a break? Do you need to go to the toilet? Get ready to keep one hand free. Do you think that killing 149 of them on your left leg makes a difference? Then you are an optimist!

PPS: Did you google the track? I’m sure you got wonderful views!